Injury’s suck theres no way of glossing over it making it sound better than it is, but you try to, you kid yourself you even start to believe it ”oh its ok it wont take too long” you tell yourself over and over again. You start to fill your days with other stuff and you get on with it. But when your constantly striving for some kind of optimum wave riding experience to put a grin on your dial and it controls your every thought day in day out and then WHAM its gone, injury’s really do suck.
Its inevitable I guess at some point your gonna kook it and things are gonna go pair shaped real quick, one minute you think your gods gift to surfing and then the next minute WA PA your rolling around in the white water wondering if your leg is still attached.
This episode of StRaNGe Beautiful Life was filmed in two parts the first part was filmed just before I tried to be all Bruce ”look no hands” Irons and got a lip to the head immediately confirming that I’m no Bruce Irons and yes I do feel pain especially when tearing the Medial Collateral Ligament and Meniscus in my nobly knee.
Fast forward four tediously long couch ridden months where I got to know a rehabilitation elastic band really well and I’m back good as new, well I’m notably chubbier and pretty dam clumsy on a surfboard but I cant help thinking that time out of the water has given me perspective and a certain outlook that I’m sure was there before but I feel different, its just when you cant do something you love for ages when you finally get to do it again you fall in love with it all over again.
If I’ve taken anything positive from this injury its that we should all take a step backwards sometimes to appreciate things even more.
Hope you enjoy this episode and its gets your froth on to go surfing.
cheers
Stoker
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